B47 
18a1 







4 






W 



^W 



#1 







Class. 
Book 






Qld Poii^t Goir|fort 




land. 



1.) Y reference to the map on opposite page, a narrow 
-^surrounded by water, extending out from the eastern shore of Virginia into 
the broad expanse of water formed by the confluence of the Chesapeake Bay and 
James River, will be noticed. This is "Old Point Comfort." 

In [606, a company was formed in London, for the purpose of colonizing Vir- 
ginia. The persons named in the charter, which was dated April 10, 1606, as found- 
ers ot the London Company, were Sir Thomas (rates. Sir George Sinners, Richard 
Hakluyt, ami Edward Maria Wingfield 

The Company guaranteed, lor every ,/jj los. (about $60,) paid into the 
treasury, to give the contributor one hundred acres of land in the new colony, 
with the promise of one hundred acres more when the hrst lot had been 
cultivated. 

The Company organized, tilted out their vessels under the command 

. of Captain Christophei Newport, who had acquired a maritime repu- 

c tatlon 1 y former expeditions against the Spaniards. On 

>l JT7 f r Decei er 19, 1606. one hundred and five men embarked 

JL.JJ '"" ■- "' tnese vessels, destined to form the first colony 

■HBSS^.. il_'.-.j".:_-, llf Virginia but not very well_selected for such 



VISITORS HAND BOOK. 



a purpose. Of this number, forty eight were "gentlemen" parsons brought up to esteem 
labor degrading. There were but twelve laborers, four carpenters and a few other me- 
chanics. The leaders were Wingfield, a merchant, Gosnold, who had made a previous 
voyage to the New World, the chaplain; and last, but not least, that seventeenth century 
] ier0 _j hn Smith — soldier, sailor, discoverer, diplomatist, and historian of the enterprise. 
The names of the future counsellors to whom the government of the colony was to be 
intrusted were carried to Virginia a profund secret, carefully sealed up in a tin box, along 
with king James' instructions. Newport proceeded by way of the Canaries and the West 
Indies, and, during the long passage, cabals arose. Wingfield, jealous of Smith's reputa- 
tion accused him of a desire to murder the Council, upsurp the government and make 
himself King of Virginia; and on this extraordinary charge Smith was arrested and kept in 
confinement during the remainder of the passage. Several weeks were spent among the 
Carribee Islands. Sailing thence in search of the coast of Virginia, a fortunate storm 
drove the vessels past Roanoke, and after a four months' passage from England they en- 
tered the Chesapeake Bay or " Mother of the Waters." The two headlands at the entrance 
were named Cape Henry and Cape Charles, after the King's two sons. A party of thirty 
landing at Cape Henry, were attacked by five of the natives and had two of their number 
wounded. Presently the ship came to anchor at old Point Comfort, at the mouth of a 
broad river or estuary. Here the sealed box was opened and the names of the Council 
made known. They then continued their journey of exploration up the Powhatan, (James) 
trafficking with the natives, who received them kindly and regarded them with curious 
eves ;is manv of them had never before seen a white man. A spot was finally chosen for 



VISIT! IRS II \\ li P.i h )K. 




<) VISITORS HAND BOOK 

settlement on the north hank of the river, about fifty miles from the bay. Tins spot was 
called Jamestown, and the river soon came to be known as the James River. 

In. July, 1608, Captain Smith, with a select party, started in an open boat to explore 
the shores of the Chesapeake. They proceeded safely on their way as far as the entrance 
of the Piankatank River, when a mighty storm arose with thunder, wind and furious rain 

In their open boats they were exposed to the full force of the blast, and sought in vain 
to stem its fury and find their way into some convenient harbor. Unable to ride at an- 
chor, they put their frail bark before the wind and scudded toward the southward. York 
river was passed; then Back river, neither of which they could make; till finally they came 
to the sandy strip of land jutting out into the entrance of the James River, rounding which 
they found shelter from the storm, and named the place, in gratitude of heart, Point Com- 
fort. The adjective "old," has since been given to distinguish it from its sister shelter, 
New Point Comfort, higher up the bay. 

For years before the war Old Point Comfort had been celebrated as a watering place. 
The singular salubrity of its location, malarial fever being absolutely unknown, assured it 
a wide celebrity as a place of residence during the heated summer months. The mildness 
of the climate, also, aided to produce the same results. The temperature in summer ran- 
ges between 60 and 80 degrees, and the nights are few when a bed-covering is not found 
an agreeable necessity of repose. The gentry of the upper country flocked hither during the 
summer months to enjoy the unaccustomed luxury of sea bathing and fishing. But the 
outbreak of the war, which wrought so many changes, interposed an abrupt interruption 
lo the career of Old Point Comfort as a resort for pleasure. Military necessity demanded 



VISITORS 11AM) BOOK. 




the demolition of the hotel build- 
ing which interferred materially 
with the range of the guns of 
the fort. And even had this not 
been the case, the host of quon- 
dam pleasure seekers had other 
and sterner duties to perform. 
Grim-visaged war dropped down 
its sable curtain upon the theatre 
ofpleasure ; and for long, weary 
years Old Point Comfort was 
known and regarded as an im- 
portant military post in posses- 
sion of the United States. It was 
not until several years after the 
return of peace that the Hygeia 
Hotel arose from its ashes, and 
Old Point Comfort again took its 
position as one of the leading- 
watering places on the Atlantic 
coast. It has gradually grown 
into popular favor, vear by year. 



AT BREAKFAST HYGEIA HOTEL, 



HAND l!i m IK. 



The modest building, which at first contained ample accommodations tor its patrons, was 
added to from year to year by its progressive founder, Mr. Harrison Phoe dus, until at his 
death, in 1886, it was one of the finest and most complete hostelries in the United States; 
and to-day it stands a monument to his skill and energy. Its present capacity is over one 
thousand guests. 

Mr. Pcebus died, after a short illness, on Thursday morning, February 25th, 1SS6, at 
six o'clock, aged 46 years. After his death the Hotel was run by his executors under the 
management of Mr. F. N. Pike, who had been Mr. Pocebus'. right hand man for a number 
of years. Under his administration the house has retained its old-time popularity, and it 
is taxed to its utmost to accommodate its patrons during its busy season 

According to the provisions of the will and the decree of the Court, the property was 
sold at public auction, on the 7th day of April, 1887, and was bought for $352,500, by a 
syndicate, Mrs. Phoebus securing one-third interest. 

The climate of Old Point Comfort is unequaled for salubrity and general healthful- 
ness. The record of the Meteorological Observatory for the past ten years shows the fol- 
lowing average temperature: Summer, 70 deg.; Autumn, 51 deg.; Winter, 47 deg.; Spring, 
54.3 deg. It is a well-known fact that every Post Physician that has been stationed here 
speaks in the highest terms of its healthfulness and freedom from diseases of a malig- 
nant type, as well as for its beneficial effect upon those troubled or threatened with certain 
disease. 

The Hygeia stands directly at the head of the Government wharf, which is the larg- 
est and finest landing in the country, and its extensive verandahs, which, during the 
Spring and Winter seasons, are enclosed in glass, front directly on Hampton Roads, thus 



VISITORS HAM) KOUK 




BANQUET HA I.]., HYG1 I A. 



lO \ IS] I ■( IRS HAND BOO'K 

affording the most delicate invalid the opportunity of an ever-changing panoramic view, 
no matter how severe the weather outside. The building is four stories high, and has am- 
ple accommodations for one thousand guests. It is furnished throughout regardless of ev- 
erything but the health, comfort and convenience of its guests. Steam radiators or open 
grate fires in every room; elevators, electric bells, or oral annunciators, bath rooms, both 
public or private, for hot or cold, fresh or sea water baths, with the most perfect system of 
ventilation and drainage, and its unsurpassed cuisine, places the Hygeia at the head of any 
other like establishment in the country. 

A special feature is a complete set of baths, including Turkish, Russian, Thermo-elec- 
tric, Magnetic, Sulphur and Vapor baths, which adds another and most wonderful agent 
to the therapeutic advantages of the Hygeia, as beneficial as it is unique. 

In addition to the Hygeia, Mr. Geo. Booker has recently enlarged and beautified his 
popular Hotel, "Sherwood," doubling its capacity and furnishing it throughout in the most 
approved style. The appointments of this house are perfect, and the rates moderate. 

The Chesapeake & Ohio Railway Co. have extended their road across Mill Creek, fol- 
lowing the water line and terminating within a few yards of the Hotels, thus mak- 
ing it much more convenient for tourists by rail, who, previous to this, had to be transferred 
about a mile in 'busses. 

Before leaving the subject of Old Point Comfort, it might be well to state that it is 
owned entirely by the Government. Not a foot of this land can be bought at any price; 
nor can a dwelling of any kind be erected thereon without a special act of Congress. 

A walk of about three minutes from the Hygeia brings us to Fort Monrof, a de- 
scription of which is given in the next chapter. 



VISITORS' ,H VXL' BOOK 



II 




RUSS1 \X AND TURKISH BATHS, HVOEIA. 




Yovt Moijroe 



The natural fitness of this locality tor a 
"ortified station was early seen and taken 
( id vantage of. As early as March, 1639, one 
"Harvey built a fort at Old Point Comfort, 
it the entrance of James River, and to sup- 
ply it with ammunition, a fee or payment in 
powder and ball was demanded from every ship that passed. The com- 
mander was authorized to tender the oaths of allegiance and supremacy 
to all persons arriving at the colony, and to send all vessels to Jamestown 
before unloading any of their cargoes." 

The following is the original act passed for its erection : 
"Matter of ffortifications was againetaken into consideration and Capt. 
Sam'l Mathewes was content to undertake the raysing of a fforte at Poynt 
Comfort ; whereupon Capt. Robert Ffelgate, Capt. John Thomas Perfury 
Capt. Thomas Graies, Capt. John Uty, Capt. Tho. Willoby, Mr. Tho. 
Heyrick and Leu't. Win. Perry, by full consent of the whole Assembly, were chosen to 
view the place, conclude what manner of fforte shall be erected, and to compounde and 
agree with the said Capt. Mathews for the'building, raysing and furnishing the same,"&c. 



VISITORS HAXP BOOK 13 

The ground upon which Fort Monroe stands, was ceded by the Legislature of Virginia 
to the Government of the United States, to be used as the site of a military post. General 
Simeon Bernard, a foreign engineer, was employed to design the fortifications, and in the 
year 1 81 7 the ground plan was traced, and the work of erection commenced. 

The Fort covers about eighty acres of ground, and is the largest in the world. Its 
form is that of an irregular hexagon, two sides of which command the water front, while 
four look out upon the land. The walls, which are of granite, rise to the height of 35 feet; 
and about the entire work a moat extends — from seventy-five to one hundred and fifty 
feet wide, and faced with granite — the water in which rises to the height of 8 feet at high 
tide. On the land side the ramparts are solid, with the exception of some of the flanks 
which are casemated. but on the side toward the water the armament consists of two tiers 
of guns, one casemated and one in barbette. Up to the commencement of the Rebellion it 
had cost the Government two and a half million dollars. 

We cross the bridge, which spans the moat, and enter the open gates, pass the senti- 
nel on his monotonous beat, and find ourselves behind its frowning walls. We observe that 
the interior is well laid out with broad and partially shaded walks. Numerous live oaks 
are planted about the parade ground, which afford luxuriant shade under which the visit- 
or may pass his time reading or listening to the sweet and enlivening strains of the full 
military brass band stationed here. We first mount the ramparts, from which we have a 
fine view of the Hampton Roads on the water side, and of the surrounding level but 
picturesque country, with its farms and villages dotting here and there, .on the land side. 
Leaving the ramparts, which afford a delightful promenade, we will next visit the muse- 



U 



VISITORS' HAND BOOK 








^fiHs 




DINING KOOM-j HYOtlA. 



. VIS] rOJiS H \ \ l> l:« M Ik j ■ » 

vim, which is open daily for the inspection of visitors. After'examining the many curious 
and interesting relics of warfare, we will, before proceeding further, give the reader some 
idea of the routine work of the fort. 

To the casual visitor there appears to be nothing of importance going on. We meet 
butiew officers or soldiers beside the sentinels, and occasionally a detail squad here and 
there, but we must remember that this is not only a fortified garrison, but also a school. 
Four officers from each of the five Regiments of Artillery are ordered here on special 
duty for the course, embracing two and a half years. Here the theories they have studied 
are put into practical shape. The text-books and documents used in the school are all 
printed in the garrison. 

There is Guard Mounting every morning at 8:45 o'clock, excepting Sundays, when it 
occurs an hour later. 

Dress Parade every day. Saturdays and Sundays excepted, at half an hour before 
sunset. 

In addition to the above there is target practice nearly every afternoon, outside of the 
fort, back of the government machine shop, or from the ramparts. 

In July there is sea coast firing every afternoon, between 3 and 4 o'clock, excepting 
Saturdays and Sundays. 

Church service is held in the chapel, on the grounds, every Sunday morning at 10.45 
o'clock. This chapel is aptly called, "Church of the Centurion." 



\ l-i ii >RS HAND liin iK 




VISITORS- HAM) BOOK. I 7 

Besides places already mentioned, there is also an electrical and engineering depart- 
ment, and a laboratory. 

Lt. Col. Royal T. Frank is the officer in command. 

In casemate No. 2, 1st Front, near the postern gate, Jefferson Davis was confined after 
his capture. 

If visitors desire souvenirs of their visit they can obtain views of all the principal 
points of interest of Mr. Wm. Baulch, the Post Trader, opposite the parade ground. 

Leaving the fort, we next drive to the National Soldiers' Home. Before entering the 
main road we pass a pretty little church on our left. This is St. Mary's Catholic Church, 
Rev. Father Mercer, pastor. Services on Sunday at io:;,o a. m. Vespers at 7:30 p. m. 
Daily services at 7:30 a. m. We also notice on our left an enclosure containing stacks of 
cannon balls, condemned ordnance, or parts of same. On our right is the Government 
machine shop. We soon come to an iron bridge spanning Mill Creek, in the center of 
which paces a sentinel night and clay, crossing which, we find ourselves in Virginia, on the 
sacred soil of the "Old Dominion." 

On the opposite side of the bridge is Chesapeake City, a town of nearly one thousand 
inhabitants. There are several popular boarding houses here, the principal ones being 
Bright View Cottage, C. E. Welch, proprietor, and Larrabee's private boarding house. 



1 8 



VISIT( IRS HAND V, i 




National JJon^e for ]3. Y. Soldiers, 



SOUTHERN I5RANCH. 




We will take the reader back to ant-cbellum 

days. From the boat, on our way from Nor- 

folk, we notice on our left a large imposing 

structure, delightfully situated in the midst 

of trees and shrubbery, facing the broad 

waters of Hampton Roads, and directly at 

the entrance of Hampton Creek. This, at 

the time we refer to, was the Chesapeake 

Female College, under the control of the 

It was built in 1857, at a cost of $64,000, 

and was occupied about November of the same year, but was not 

finished till the winter of 1859 — 60. The property originally 

comprised 26 acres, In this institution many of the daughters 




1,11 PO '■•' CHAPEL, P. E. — CHURCH OF THE lEXH'RK 



visitors hand book. 21 

of the F. F. V. prosecuted their studies uninterruptedly until the breaking out ol the war 
when they were called to their homes, and the building — which had often re-echoed with 
their laughter— was soon put to a far different use. It was taken possession of by the Gov- 
ernment, and about October, 1861, was used as a hospital, and later, by General Schofield, 
as headquarters. In 1864 the property was purchased by General Butler, who, in 1S70, 
sold it to the Government to be used as a Home for disabled soldiers, $50,000 being paid 
for the same. 

The first Deputy Governor of this Branch was Rev. Charles A. Raymond, the for- 
mer President of the College, who was appointed January 1, 1871. February t, of the 
same year, there were about 50 members; but as the place became better known, the 
number gradually increased. The number that could be originally accommodated was 
about 350. 

On the 17th of January, 1873, the present Governor, Col. P. T. Woodfin, assumed 
charge, and each year since, the institution has been taxed for room. Numerous brick Bar- 
racks have been erected, as well as an immense hospital accommodating 900 patients. There 
is also a commodious laundry, boiler house, ice house, in which the ice used by the 
institution is manufactured ; a fine Library, a large Hall built for amusement purpose- . 
etc. In fact, as far as possible, everything necessary to make the place comfortable and 
attractive-to the members, has been done. Since its organization, 8,326 veterans have been 
admitted and cared for. Number of veterans at present 3,600. Notwithstanding the con- 
stant addition of new barracks, the Home is being continually taxed to its utmost capacity. 
There is little doubt but that this branch will, in the course of time, equal in importance 
and attraction either of the other Branches. 



VJH rORS HAN I) BOOK. 




CASEMATE WHERE JEFFERSON DAVIS WAS CONFINED, FORT MONROE, 



VISITORS HAND B@OK 23 

The officers of the Institution are : Col. P. T. Woodfin, Governor ; Maj. Wm. Thump- 
son, Treasurer; Col. Charles Candy, Com. Sub., Dr. S. K. Towle, Surgeon. W. J. Sewell is 
the Local Manager. 

The original entrance to the Home grounds is by a road branching to the left from the 
main road to Hampton, about half way between the latter place and Mill Creek, but a new 
road has recently been opened on the south side, adjoining- Roseland, the estate of Mrs. 
Harrison Phoebus. Entering the grounds through an archway, we drive direct to the en- 
trance of the Main Building, where we will find a Guide in waiting, who is ready at once to 
take us to every place of interest. We first enter the 

MAIN BUlI^DIXCx 

and take a peep into company quarters. Everything is as neat and clean as though 
" house cleaning day " were but yesterday. The men are sitting down or lying on their 
cots reading. All seem contented and happy. We pass on up to the next floor ; it is but 
a duplicate of the first ; and so on, all the way up. We find wash rooms, bath-rooms and 
other conveniences, on every floor, while an elevator is running at all time for the accommo- 
dation of those veterans who are afflicted or too old to walk up and down the stairway. A 
view from the piazza on the fifth floor is well worth the exertion of climbing. Here we 
can see for miles; and the ever-changing panorama of passing boats is one that must be 
seen to be appreciated. We now descend, and our guide will take special pride in conduct- 
ing: us to the 



^. ISITORS HAND I'.OOK 




\ BIG GUN. 



VIS] l'< »RS HAND B< nik 



-5 



WARD MEMORIAL HALL. 

This is a beautiful brick structure and reflects greal credit alike on the architect and 
builder. It was built by funds bequeathed for that purpose by Mr. Horatio Ward of 
London, England. The original amount left was Si 00,000, which, with interest, &c, up to 
the time it was applied, a- ^gggg^ ^ moth boilers, coffee pots, etc. 

As el ewhere, every thing is 
clean and in good order. It 



mounted to about $111,000. _ 
This amount was divided a- 
mong the different Branches. 
We first enter the spacious 
dining-room ; everything is 
in perfect order ; sixteen ta 
bles the entire length of the 
dining room are set, read} 
for the next meal. i,coo mcr 
can be acorn modated at on 
silting In the adjoining room 
is the kitchen, with its mam- 




may be of interest to some to 
mow that it takes over 2,000 
sounds of beef at one meal 
id about 2, ceo loaves of 
iread daily. The latter is all 
•aked on the place. The bill 
>f fare changes daily, and 
aries with the seasons. We 
;ive the bill of fare for one 

day, Sunday ; 



' 11 \rr.r , soldiers home. 



26 



\ ISITORS II WD Bi « >K 






• '■ Wh, 




■ r 

From HAF.rh »'» Masazinb. 



<fX»V«V 



Cop; right, 18S6, hj II ikpeh * Brothi r& 
MAIM BUILDING, SOLDIERS' HOM1 . 



VISITORS HAND B( >OK. 



27 



BREAKFAST 

Fresh Pork. 

Sausage. 

Baked Beans. 

Bread. 

Butter. 

Coffee. 



DINNER. 

Roast Mutton 

llrcad. 

Butter. 

Lima Beans. 

Rice Pudding. 

Coffer. 



SUPPER. 

Slewed Peaches. 
Bread. 
Butter. 

Cheese. 

Tea . 



In the same building is a billiard room, where those of the members who delight in 
that interesting amusement, can while away many an hour. 
We now visit the 




theatre on the floor 
above. This is a 
beautiful room, and 
perfect in all it^ ap- 
pointments. It is 
supplied with a well 
selected stock of 
scenery. Its seating 
capacity is 915. En- 
tertainments of all 

HOSPITAL, NATIONAL SOLDIERS IK) 

Commissary of Subsistence are in ;i two-story brick building 



ME. 

near 



kinds are given here 
for the amusement 
of the members, who 
are admitted free. 

The office of the 
( h tvernor i 3 in a neat 
building near the 
boulevard, a short 
distance from his res- 
~A idence ; while those 
)f the Treasurer and 



Ward " Memorial Hall 



28 



VIS] I i »RS II AM) B( h iK 




WARD MEMORIAL HALL, SOLDIERS' HOME. 



visiti irs h \\]> mote 



29 



In the rear of the Governor's residence are the ■ 

CONSERVATORIES. 



If we are a lover of the beautiful in nature, we can enjoy 
the beauty and fragrance of the many choice and rare plants 
that are here found. The houses are under the manage- 
ment of Mr. David Sutherland, whose skill and taste in 
floriculture are noticeable on evry hand. Leaving the 
Conservatorv, we wend our way to 

THE HOSPITAL, 



which is the largest and 
most imposing struc- 
ture on the grounds. 
HEADQUARTERS, SOLDIERS' HOME. HOW Striking the con- 
trast, from life and beauty to sickness and suffering ! 
Here are many poor fellows whose unwritten lives art 
full of romance. Many of them have been confined for 
months, vet with all they bear up bravely, even cheer- 
fully. The patients treated here average about three 
hundred and fifty daily. They have the best of care and 





PAVILION, SOLDIER5' HOME. 



VIS] I'ORS HAND BOOJC. 



the most skillful treatment. Dr. Samuel K. Towle is the Surgeon in charge, with Dr. E. J. 
Shores as ist assistant, and Dr. Charles Brewer 2nd assistant. 

TUB LIBRARY, 

which we next visit, is on the second floor of the brick building in the rear of the Main 

Clellan, Mrs. Zollikoffer and 
Mr. Albert Crane of New 



Building. The first contri- 
bution to the Library was 
made by the "Ladies Union" 
of New York City, in 187 r. 
Many kindly disposed per- 
sons have contributed, from 
time to time, many valuable 
and interesting volumes. 
Among the donors might be 
mentioned Mrs. General Mc- 




' s |-l York City,Mrs.Oswin Wells, 
^-1 Mrs. J. Watson Black, Mrs. 



H. Whitmore, Mrs. J. N. 
Goodwin, Miss Batterson, 
and Mr. Black of Hartford 
Con.; and many others. 

Governor Woodfin has al- 
ways taken a warm interest 



\RR.\Ck, SOLDIERS HoMl 

in the Library, and from special funds he has added at different times many choice and in- 
teresting works, till it now numbers seven thousand volumes — American, German and 
French. There are between one and two hundred papers taken, daily, tri-weekly and week- 
ly; besides a number of magazines and other periodicals. 

The Library is open daily except Saturdays and Sundays, from 8 a. rn to i..> m. from 
1 to 5 p. m. and from 6 to S p. in. 




VISITORS HAND B0< >k 

: 



Thi' Home is a great 
resort during the sum- 
mer for excursion par- 
ties, which afford amuse- 
ment for the old vets 
who enjoy the company 
of the children, and take 
pleasure in watching 
them at their childish 
games. To accommodate 
such parties, a pavilion 
has heen erected at the 
extreme south-end of the 
grounds, where the pic- 
nicers can enjoy them- 
selves dancing, and also 
secure a shelter in wet 
weather. 

In addition to the 
buildings already rnen- 

/'. T. IVOODFIJV, Governor of Southern Br 

The drive along the water front is delightful, and the \ 
terrace runs the entire length of the breakwater, which is t; 
bers as a promenade. 




Haup 



audi. 

iew 
tken 



tiuned, there is a Rest- 
aurant and Beer Saloon, 
Bo i le r II o u s e, G a s 
House, Ice House, Laun- 
dry, Bake House, Fire 
Engine House, a number 
of brick and frame bar- 
racks, and a neat com- 
modious Chapel, where 
services are held every 
Sabbath ; Catholic in the 
morning and Protestant 
in the afternoon — the 
lather being divided be- 
tween Methodist, Bapt- 
ist, Episcopalian and 
Presbyterian. 

The buildings are not 
the only places of at- 
traction at the Home, 

>eautiful. Abroad, board 
advantage of by the mem- 



32 VISITORS HAND BOOK 

Tlie grounds are well shaded and tastefully laid out, and it would be difficult to find a 
place more suited to the object for which it is intended. 

There is a well organized steam fin- department connected with the institution. 

Besides the entertainments in "Ward " Memorial Hall, the members have many other 
amusements, such as boating, yatching, fishing and salt-water bathing. 

The fine military band connected with the institution under the leadership of Prof. 
Leavv, gives Open Air Concerts every afternoon, except Sundays, from 3 to 4 o'clock. 

On Sunday morning, there is Outside Inspection at 9.15 o'clock. Viewed from the piaz- 
za, the sight of over 2,000 veterans, arranged in companies around the spacious walks of 
the grounds, is very picturesque, and is enjoyed by thousands of visitors yearly. 

Many of the members pass their tims in miking fancy and curious articles to sell to 
visitors as souvenirs of their visit. 

Leaving the Home grounds, we next \dsit the National Cemetery, a description of 
which will be given in the next chapter. 



Ttje \atioijal Qen\etery. 



How s'eep the brave, who sink to rest, 

13v all iheir Country's wishes blest. 
When Spring with dewy lingers cold 

Returns to deck their hallowed mould, 
She i heie shall dress a sweeter sod 

Than Fancy's feet have ever trod. 

This cemetery is situated on the south-eastern side of the Normal School grounds and 
is separated from the Soldier's Home by a narrow inlet of the Hampton Creek. 

The lot is an irregular figure, of many sides, six of them being right lines, the bal- 
ance following the windings of the inlet, above mentioned. To the casual observer the lot 
appears to be a parallelogram, about twice as long as wide. 

It contains ir.6i acres of level land, and was purchased by the United States in 1867 
for the sum of $6,306. It is enclosed by a rubble stone wall, laid in mortar, and covered 
by a rough coping. 

We enter the enclosure by a gate, on the north side and proceed to the office of the 
Superintendent, Major T. D. McAlpine, which is on the left hand side, near the entrance, 
where we register our names, and then proceed up the main avenue, twenty feet wide, on 
either side of which are well kept flower beds. 



VIS] I ORS II V.\ l» Bl >OK 



About 350 feet from the entrance is a mound upon winch the flagstaff stands. Facing 
this mound, on either side, is a large cannon planted vertically. Here the road branches 
off to the right and left. Near the centre of the cemetery is an imposing solid granite 



MONUMENT, 



65 feet high. erected 
through the efforts of Miss 
D. L. Dix, of New York. 
This monument stands in 
the centre of a circular 
plat, 74 feet in diameter, 
which is enclosed by an 
iron fence, the posts being 
3 inch rifled cannon ( Rod- 
man) an:l the pickets mus- 
ket-barrels with bavonets 




lixed. 

We naturally look for 
mounds over the graves, 
as in other cemeteries, but 
if it were not for the long 
straight rows of low head- 
stones, we would not know 
they were graves. The 
ground is perfectly level, 
sodded and kept closely 
cropped, giving the whole 



BAKERY, SOLDIERS HOME. 

cemetery the appearance of being carpeted with a beautiful green. 

The graves are arranged in double parallel rows, feet to feet, with paths five feet wide 
between each row of head stones; these stones contain the name, rank, and State of the 
deceased, if known. 



V1S1 L - ORS' HAND BOOK 



35 




From Hu:n .:'- M 



Copyright, 1886, by Harper & Brothers. 



X \TlO\ U CEMETERY 



36 



VISIT) »RS II AN 1) IliiiiK 



At the south-cast end of the cemetery, are the graves of many Confederates who died 
while prisoners of war, either in the Hospital at Camp Hamilton or in Fort Monroe. 
The interments to date, December i, 1890, are as follows : 



Known. 

White Union Soldiers 44' - 

White I'nion Sailors 104 

Colored I'nion Soldiers .... 102O 



Total _ ... 

Confederate Soldiers and Sailors 
Citizens, wo nen and children .. . 

Total interments 

All the bodies interrc 
here previous to May 14, 
[871, wire removed from 
their places 1 »i original in- 
terment, bring mostly from 
1 he grounds 1 »f 1 he genet il 
hospitals in this vicinity, 
but some were removed 
from Big Bethel. Newport 
News. Norfolk, Ports- 
mouth, Craney Island, and 
i ,\ hei pla< e The intei - 



:542 
280 

83 



Unknown. 

412 
6 

57 

475 




Tola!. 

4824 

1 io 

1083 



6017 

280 

83 



6380 

merits from the Soldier's 
Home average about fit - 
teen a month. Interments 
in this cemetery will have 
to cease before long, as 
nearly all the available 
space is filled. The ques- 
tion of securing a plot of 
land in the immediate vi- 
cinity for a new one is now 
beinef considered. 



: I . ENT BARRACKS, HOMl 



VISITORS ll.W'l) LJOOK. 



/ 



SBHfiE 




xjl 



■■\ Mil I <M> 



iliU i- b^i 




Norrrjal ai)d ^griclilttiral [institute 



This Institution is situated about two and a half miles from Old Point Comfort, on an 
estate of one hundred and twenty acres, once known as " Little Scotland," and during the 
Civil War as "Camp Hamilton," the base Hospital of the Army of the James, where as 
many as 10,000 sick and wounded Union soldiers were cared for at one time. On theclore 
of the war, it became headquarters for the " Hampton District " ( including ten counties 
of Virginia) of the " Bureau of Refugees, Freedmen and Abandoned Lands," commis- 
sioned by government to reconstruct, administer justice during the suspension of the civil 
courts, adjust claims, provide work for and scatter to their former homes the throngs of 
contrabands who had been dependent on government rations, bring back those who had 
been sold away, and have general guardianship of the mission schools among them. Gen. 
S. C. Armstrong, Bureau Officer in charge of the ,( Hampton District," advised that a 
Normal and Industrial School be established on this spot, and, on request of the American 
Missionary Association, undertook the work. The estate was purchased in the summer of 
1867 for the sum of nineteen thousand ($19,000) dollars. After erecting the necessary 
buildings, the school was opened in April, 186S, with fifteen scholars and two teachers. 



Old l>)ii}iiuoq Steamship Gonipaqy 

FOR NEW \<)RK 

THIS RODiE AFFOBDS THE HOST DELIGHTFDL OCEAN TRIP ON THE ATLANTIC COAST- 

The Steamships are A i in construction and kept up to a standard of general excellence. The 
State-rooms are unusually large and commodious. Special and particular attention paid to the locat- 
ing of families and pleasure parties. Tables liberally supplied with all delicacies in season. 

KROM 

OLL3 POINT COMFORT, HAMPTON and NEWPORT NEWS. 
Via Company's Annex Boat connecting at Norfolk, 

MoNdaY, tUesdaY, Wednesday, tHUrsdaYandSATUrdaY eVeNiNgs, 

with Steamer for New York; arriving at New York the following night. 

Travelers from interior points will find the daily Trips made by this Company's commodious Steam- 
boat " Northampton " to and from places adjacent to Old Point Comfort offer delightful and invigor- 
ating sea air excursions 

"For further information apply at general Ticket office of the Hygeia Hotel, Old Point Comfort. 

FIRST CLASS TICKETS include Meal and State-Room accommodations 
on Main Lines of Company. 

MENTION VISITORS' HANO BOOK. \/V , H. STANrOf\U) Gi P. A-l 

CoiniKiny's General Office. 335 West Street, corner Beecn, New Yorlc. 



40 VISITORS HAND BOOK. 

In June. 1870, the Institute received a charter from the General Assembly of Virginia, 
creating a corporation, with power to choose their own successors, and to hold property 
exempt from taxation. This board numbers seventeen members, who hold and control the 
entire property of the School by deed from the American Missionary Association. The 
School is undenominational, but decidedly religious in its training. 

In March, 1872, the General Assembly of Virginia passed an Act, allowing the institu- 
tion the interest on one third of the Agricultural College land grant of Virginia. Its share 
was one hundred thousand acres, which were sold in May, 1872, for $95,000. Nine-tenths 
of this money was invested in State bonds, bearing six per cent interest ; the other tenth 
has been expended in the purchase of additional land, increasing the size of the home farm 
to one hundred and ninety acres. The land thus received was a part of the " Segar" estate, 
adjacent to the Institute grounds, and well adapted to the needs of the School. The State 
has, thus far, promptly paid the interest on the fund, amounting to about ten thousand 
($10,000) dollars annually. None of this money can be used for building purposes. It 
supplies about one tenth of the running expenses of the School, The disbursement of this 
income must be ratified by a Board of six Curators (three of whom may be Colored,) ap- 
pointed by the Governor every four years. They meet with the Trustees, annually,. in 
May. and attend their deliberations. 

In addition to the Home farm of one hundred and titty acres, the institution also has 
a grass and grain farm of six hundred acres, about four miles outside of Hampton, which is 
worked by the students. This is (.'ailed " Hemenwav " farm. 



VISITORS H \N I) BOOK. 



41 




I !BR \kY i;i. I f.DTNC, SCHOi 'I 



42 



VISITORS HAND BOOK 



The entire property of the School is now 
paid Tor by private contributions. 

The leading aim of the School is to give 
gent, earnest, practical teachers ; the demand 
yond its ability to supply. 
In April, 1878, Indian 
students were admitted, 
the first being seventeen 
Arapahoe, Cheyenne and 
Kiowa ex-warriors, taken 
from a band of about fif- 
ty, who had been held as 
prisoners of war at St. 
Augustine, Florida, for 
three years, under Capt. 
R. H. Pratt, of the United 
States Army. Success 




valued a $500,000, most of which has been' 

the Negro and Indian races a class of intelli- 
for which is increasing yearly, and is far be- 



with these, the most sav- 
age of the Indian races, 
led to further efforts in 
their behalf ; and the 
number has increased 
yearly, until, at the present 
time, there are 133, both 
sexes being represented , 
these are from fifteen 
Agencies, and represent as 
manv tribes. 



MEMORIAL CHAPEL, SCHOOL 



The United States pays S^y. a piece, per annum for 120 Indians, which covers the cost 
of board and clothing. Tuition, besides all buildings and outfit, is provided by friends, as 
well as the entire cost of from twelve to twenty outside the government quota. 



VISITORS HAND BOOK 43 

The School is not under control of, or supported by, the government. 

It requires about $100,000 a year for running expenses ; of which the school receives 
from the government $20,000 ; the State of Virginia, $ro,ooo, and from investments and 
rental, about $10,000. The balance, $60,000, is contributed by friends of the cause, chiefly 
in annual scholarships of $70.00 each. The pressing need of the school is an endowment 
fund of one million dollars. 

The following is the number of students admitted during the year ending June 3oth } 
1S91 : 

Negro Students, 5 18 

Indian " 136 



Total. 654 

No. of officers and teachers in class rooms, agriculture, work shops and house-keeping 
departments, S3 ; 13 are graduates of the School. Ninety per cent, of the five hundred 
graduates are teaching, or have taught in this and neighboring States. 

Classes may be visited each week-day, except Monday, between 10:30 and 12 o'clock a. m. 

The work shops may be visited any week-day. 

The dinner hour is 12:20 p. m., at which time all the students are assembled in the large 
dining room in Virginia Hall. 

Inspection every morning, except Sunday and Monday, at 8:30. 

Church services in Memorial Chapel on Sunday afternoons, at 4 o'clock. Seats free. 

With this much by way of introduction and explanation, we will wend our way hrst 
to the Offices of the Principal and Treasurer, which are situated, in a neat frame build - 



The Jackson ^Sanatorium. 



■@@- 




HEALTH RESORT, 



:f . f \v !; U.- ;: 



UiUii|l 




II DASTSTILLEL - 



- HEW YOU- 



Established in 1858. 

:o: 



jg>i. '^FFERS an unequalled combination of natural ad vartages, 
K§§ */ther 



rapeutic appliances, and favorable conditions for tbe sick 
jjpr Lnd exhausted. It comp ises a magnificent main building and 
twelve cottages situated in a woodland park on the eastern 
mountain si pe overlooking the attractive valley, town, and 
" - •-•W^I^BWJ^WBW* 5 * "* beautilul hills beyond. Location unsurpassed for scenery, heal h- 

ful climate, pure air and water. Malaria utterly unknown. 
the new mam building, three hundred feet long and 

ABSOLUTELY FIRE-PROOF, 

is designed to meet every need of the invalid, or seeker of rest and quiet, and is complete in sanitary details. Tt lias 
light, airy rooms, safety elevator, electric bells throughout, perfect sewerage, best modern appliances in culinary depart- 
ment; abundant, varie.: and well prepared dietary, extensive apartments for treatment, arranged to secure individual 
privacy; ell forms of baths, electricity, massage, etc., scientifically administered— Dr. Tailor's Swedish Movements. 
Instruction in Delsarte System of I hysical Culture, given by Mrs. Dr. Walter E. (iregory. The Sanatorium is under the 
personal care and management ol a permanent staff of experienced physicians, all graduates of leading regular schools in 
America. Skilled attendants minister to every need. Here is found comfort without care, and freedom from the tax- 
ations of fashionable life, with the helpful influences of a well ordered Christian home. 



OPEN ALL THE YEAR. 



( Former/ 1/ Jackson & Leffingn ■ U I 



For Circulars, Testimonials, and other in for unit ion, address 

J. ARTHUR JACKSON, 

Corresponding Secretary and General Manager, 
mention v,s,tor S ' hand book. Dansville, Livinsgton Co., N. Y. 



VISITORS HAND Bi >< »k 



45 




VCA DF.MIC II \ 1 I , Si II 



,(, VI SITORS' HAND Lil >OK. 

ing, just completed, near the Library. Here we register our names, if we choose, and se- 
curing a guide, start on our tour of inspection. We first visit the 

Library and Rending Room, 

which is in what was, until recently, the office building, built in 1882. Here are many 
curiosities of African and Indian origin, neatly arranged in show cases; together with about 
5,000 volumes, and many of the leading newspaper and periodicals of the day. From the 
Library we will go to 

Memorial Clmpel, 

one of the handsomest church edifices in the South. It was built in 1S87, by Mr. Elbert 
B Monroe, as a memorial to the late Mr. Frederick G. Marquand. Leaving the chapel we 
proceed to 

Academic H.ill, 

situated between the chapel ami the S< ience Building. This building was erected in [882 
t0 replace the one destroyed by lire on the night of November 9th, [879. 

It is divided into class rooms oi different sizes, while on the upper floor is a large- 
room for prayer meetings and other purposes. After spending an interesting half hour or 
so listening to the recitations of both colored and Indian students — we will visit the 

Science Building 

j us i opposite, which is also used for class purposes : after t which we will stco over to the 



\ tSl ['ORS II \\h BOOK. 



47 




HUNTINGTON INDUSTRIAL WORKS, SCHOOL. 



)S VISITORS* HAND ]:<h iK 

Huntington Industrial Worlis, 

a large brick structure, on the water's edge, the munificent gift of Mr. C. P. Huntington, 
of New York. In this department we find not only colored workmen, but also skilled 
white mechanics. This is necessary because of the demands made upon the Works for 
window-sash, door-frames, scroll-work, mouldings, &c. The lower floor is devoted to the 
manufacture and dressing of plain lumber ; the second floor for circular sawing, scroll saw- 
ing, turning. &c, while the third floor is used as a storage and drying room. The power 
is furnished by a Corliss engine. Extensixy 3 improvements are now under way, which will 
greatlv increase the facilities of the works". Mr. Albert Howe is business manager of this 
department, with Mi'. Jas. Brinson, Superintendent. 
A short distance from the Saw Mill is the 

Machine Shop, 

Mr E. (). Goodridge in charge. All the gas and steam fitting, repairing of machinery and 
general machine work is done by this department, the power being supplied by a new 
engine, the gift of Mr. Geo. II. Corliss The manufacturing of wheelbarrows is also carried 
on here, which gives promise of being quite an important industry Leaving this building 
we pass, on our way, two boys' dormitories, which are of no interest to the visitor. 
The next place of interest is 

The "Stone" Building, 

which was erected in 0SS2, through the liberallity of Mrs. Valeria Stone, of Maiden, Mass. 
who gave $20,000 toward it. We come first to the Girls' Industrial Room and Sewing 



VISITORS HAND BOOK 



49 




STONE MEMORIAL, SCHOOL. 



50 visitors' hand book 

and Tailoring Department. Here all the mending and making of garments is done, and 
uniforms for the students are made. Here also can be purchased souvenirs of our visit to 
the institution — articles made by Indian and colored students — such as decorated pottery, 
paper knives, dressed dolls, needle handiwork, etc. Miss M. T. Galpin has general charge. 
On the same floor in the rear, we come to the Knitting Department. Here the manufac- 
ture of mittens is carried on. The products of this department are taken by a firm in Bos- 
ton. 

We next visit the Printing Office and Book Bindery, on the first floor also. Here we 
find a large cylinder press running by steam power; also two job presses. From twenty to 
twenty-five hands are at work : colored, Indian, and white. We also notice several veterans 
from the Soldiers' Home at the case, while the bookbinder also wears the uniform of Uncle 
Sam. This department is kept busy all the time. Several monthly and quarterly publica- 
tions are issued ; also a weekly paper, besides pamphlets and job work of every descrip- 
tion. The office is self-supporting, and has a good local trade. The upper floors of this 
building are used for boys' dormitories. 
Adjoining this building is the 

Conservatory, 

built in 1883, in charge of Miss M. T. Galpin ; here, cut flowers can be obtained either 
loose or made up into any desired form. 
Facing the "Stone" building is the 



VISITORS HAND BOOK 



51 



^5 P 



.Jim:' \ :||P 

,!, "f lH fi»iipfp 

ILK. I Il.lt: 








WIGWAM, SCHOOL. 



5 2 



VISITORS HAND BOOK. 



Wigwam. 

built in i S 7 9 ; this building contains dormitories for the Indian boys. 
A short distance from this building is the 

Barn. 

This is a large frame structure, built in 1878. Here can be seen short-horn and Alderney 
stock; Morgan and Percheron horses, milch cows, swine, poultry, &c, also a large silo. The 
view from the top of the Barn is very extensive, and well worth the effort of climbing. The 




HTJBB'S 
omplete 




ATALOGUE 



■<s> 



OF 



ANGLING GOODS 

for i8gt is now ready. It contains a list of Chubb's Specialties 

NEW RODS, HEV REELS, HEW TACKLE, ARTIFICIAL FLIES, LITHOGRAPHED. 

Something every Angrier has loner wanted. 
To chow ovor Cno Hundred varieties of Artificial Flics in twelve colors, and exact size:, all done in 
the highest Style of tho art. 

We have New Articles on Fishing, Illustrated, written by Dr. J. A. Henshall, 
Rowland E. Robinson, Samuel M, Baylis, Ompompanoosuc, M. Ouad, Chas, Hallock, 
Rev. A. J. Hough, Ale.x. Starbuck, H. P. 1'fford, Geo. P. Goff, S. M. Gilinor, W. H. 
H. Murray, and Walt. McDougall. 

Send -1'icts. for Catalogue ; this may be deducted from first order for goods 
amounting to One Dollar, or more, by enclosing Coupon found in Catalogue. 

Address THOS. H. CHUBB, Th Fishing Rod Manufacturer, Post Mills, Vt. 



VISITORS HAND BOOK 



53 



r 



v.. 



-^ 







c-'. 



MlUlll"*!.' 









■■■:..■'■.■;;;;*•;,■ £ : ?'*>:;-'W^S w 



BARN, SCHOOL. 



54 visitors'hand book 

entire farming department is in charge of Mr. Albert Howe. 
We next visit the 

Indian Training Shops, 

situated in the rear of the Barn, on the corner facing the main road to Hampton and Old 
Point Comfort. 

The Carpenter Shop is in the large one-story frame building, while the main brick 
building contains on the first floor the Harness Shop ; on the second floor the Shoe De- 
partment. The Tin Shop is in a low frame building near the Barn There is also a 
Paint Shop connected with this department. 

I In a brick building in the rear of the Barn is the Wheelwright and Blacksmith 
Shop. 

These buildings were finished in 1883. 
The Technical Shops in the building b'etween the Carpenter Shop and Holly Tree Inn, 
will be removed to the Huntington Industrial building as soon as the necessary additions 
are completed. In these the rudiments of carpentry, blacksmithing, bricklaying &c, are 
taught. 

The Gymnasium, 

This Building is between the Indian Training Shop and the Boiler House. In the 
rear of the Gymnasium is the Holly Tree Inn, where the boys can procure simple refresh- 
ments at a moderate cost. 



VISITORS HAND BOOK. 



55 




WINONA, SCHOOL. 



5* 



VISITORS HAND BOOK 



Tine Hospital 

is situated between the Gymnasium and the Office building-. 

Tire Laundty 

is situated in the rear of Virginia Hall. Here the washing and ironing for the entire 
school is done. 

Trie Colored Girls' Cottage, 

of which we give an illustration on another page, was built in 1886, and has accommo- 
dations for 50 scholars and 10 teachers. It is located to the right of Virginia Hall. 



GAR MEL 



At the foot of Mt. Carmel, a Mission Society has taken ad- 
vantage of the superior 

OLIVE )}( OIL '•»"- 



made in Palestine to support itself by the manufacture of an ex- 
ceptionally fine Olive Oil Toilet Soap, which they ship direct 
to their Agent in New York It is favorably known in America as 



) 



— ^contains no adulteration, and is not artficially perfumed, depending 
tor popular fc favor on the fact of its absolute purity. Possessing the emollient properities of OLIVE On' 
it is unsurpassed for the Toilet and Bath, and superior to all other Soaps for the Teeth and Hair 
It is the ONLY PERFECTLY SAFE SOAP for the NURSURY and Invalids. 

If your druggist does not keep it send fifteen cents for sample cake to the importer, 

[Mention Visitor's Guide Book. 1 a w i mrTriM r- <-» r> i *-..■_ , ... », 

A, KLIPSTEIN, 52 Cedar.Street, New York. 



VISITORS HAND BOOK 



57 




VIRGINIA HALL, SCHOOL. 



5$ visitors' hand book. 

In the rear of the Principal's residence is the Girls Recreation Hall, a cozy, well 
lighted, well ventilated, room, where the social gatherings are held. Connected with it is 
a Kitchen, where the girls are given lessons in cooking. 

But two more buildings remain for inspection, both of which are used as dormitories 
for female students. The first one we visit is 

Winona Lodge, 
which was built in 1882, and is intended for Indian girls. On the first floor is the sewing 
room, assembly room and reception room ; the upper stories contain dormitories. After 
inspecting the neatly kept rooms, we next visit 

Virginia Hall, 

which is connected with Winona by an enclosed walk, and proceed to the front porch where 
we witness the marching of the students to dinner, headed by the School Brass Band of 16 
pieces. After all the students have filed into the long dining room, we enter with the rest 
of the visitors. At the whir of the electric bell, all is silence, until at a signal, the whole 
school join in singing a hymn of thanks ; after which, the students are seated, and are soon 
doing ample justice to the abundance of healthy and nourishing food that is placed before 
them. 

This building is 190 feet front by 40 feet in width, with a wing running 100 feet to the 
rear. In the basement is the Bakery and Commissary department. The first floor con- 
tains the students' and teachers' dining rooms, &c. The second and third floors contain 
the rooms of the teachers and colored female students. Teachers' and students' parlors 
are on the second floor ; and a large, well lighted chapel, capable of accommodating eight 



VISITORS HAND BOOK. 



59 



?f':J"' P '" "" '" ;; '^'.-^x. ^J^^mWW^^V9iW^ 




girls' cottage, school. 



6o visitors' hand book 

hundred people, is on the third floor. Virginia Hall was built in 1874, partly through the 
efforts of the "Hampton Singers," in a three year's singing campaign. It is the largest 
and handsomest building on the grounds and contains every convenience. 

The bricks, about seven million in number, used in all of these buildings, were made 
on the school grounds. 

In the rear of Virginia Hall is the Gas House ; which furnishes gas for all the princi- 
pal buildings on the place ; having a capacity of over 1,000 lights. This department is in 
charge of Mr. E. O. Goodridge. 

The steam for heating, cooking and power is supplied by a nest of boilers located in a 
brick boiler house between the Saw Mill and Machine Shop. Underground pipes in brick 
arched drains, extend to all the principal buildings on the place, thus reducing fire risk, 
and adding to the comfort, convenience and utility of the institution. 

We next drive to the 

"Whittier" School House, 

on the site of the old "Butler School," at the entrance of the School grounds. The build- 
ing is a handsome frame structure, and contains every convenience necessary for the pur- 
pose for which it is used. It was erected in 1887, at a cost of $15,400. It is used as a day 
school, and is maintained by the county six months in the year, and for three months by 
the Normal School, which supplies its teachers. The best time to visit it is about 1 1:30 p 
M. There is kitchen garden drill and singing from 12:30 to 1:301-. m. on Tuesdays and 
Thursdays. 



VISITORS HAND BOOK. 



61 











' iitpfe 






»s*»8 




ftreSbs^/V ^ — ^ i oft- 




S 






.. 



- .*; 






. ■ ■"* ... 

principal's residenxe. 



62 



VISITORS HAND BOOK 



[The "Whittier," School was destroyed by fire on the evening of March ist, 1890. Noth- 
ing was left standing but the brick foundation walls. It was rebuilt at once, on the plan 
of the former building, with but slight modifications, and re-opened in November, 1891.] 
It might be pertinently asked here, who is the head of this vast and complete system 

of training, not only for the the institution are taken care 

of by the Treasurer, Mr. F. 
N. Gilman, and the general 



head but for the hands also, if! 
The prime mover in the mat- ™- 
ter is the Principal, General 
S. C. Armstrong, largely 
through whose efforts the 
School has grown to sucr 
proportions as to challenge 
the admiration of all who an 
interested in the welfare o! 
the two races for whom it is 
designed. The finances of 




business details are looked 
after closely by Mr. F. C. 
Briggs, the Business Mana- 
ger, while the various de- 
partments are presided over 
by skilled and competent 
workmen. 

The main question asked 
by visitors is, "What be- 



" WHITTIER "'SCHOOL. 

comes of the Indians after their course at the Institution is finished, and they return to 
their homes?" From a recent official report of the school, we find that of 345 Indians, 
who since 1881 have returned from Hampton to their homes, but a very small proportion 
have been unsatisfactory. Most of them are doing well, and some very well. Their sue 
cess depends largely on the agent's interest and care for them. 



VISITORS HAND BOOK 



63 







",02 



-s-"" ss5 v an " a "^?g £ 

WIT i^M\^ : V/ 




«f IP, 



Y^'A 





.^ 




6 4 



VISITORS HAND P.OOK 



The Record of those now living in the West, to July, 1890, is as follows : 



Excellent, 61 ) ) 

Good, 173 > 266 satisfactory. | 

Fair, 32 ) | Total 

r/ j ' _ [ 25 unsatisfactory, 

They are now employed as follows : 

Regular teachers ------- 

Catechists of Episcopal church - - 
Episcopal or Presbyterian missionaries 
Physicians, nurse, school employees - 
Agency farmers ------- 

police - -___- 
" herders ------ 



! 9 1 



Agency clerks --------- 1 

stables and stock, in charge - - 4 

U. S. Infantry -------- 1 

" scouts and interpreters - 3 

" drivers -------- 3 

" surveying force ------ 5 

Working at trades ------- 18 

Working their own farms ----- 63 

Cattle raising — their own stock - - - 7 

Running stores of their own - 2 

Pupils at other schools ----- 35 

Girls well married, in good homes - - 42 

In 25 of these homes, both husband and 
wife are Hampton students. 



Having hastily inspected the workings and progress of this famous institution, we enter 
our carriage and are driven along a level shell road for about half a mile, passing on our 
way several modern dwellings, but the majority are one and two-story frames. Some few of 
them bear the stamp of ante-bellum days, but many of them are neat looking and the gar- 
dens in front kept in good order. Just at the turn of the road we pass, on our left, the old 
Tyler mansion, the former country residence of the ex-President ; and soon come to the 
Bridge, spanning the Hampton river, erected in January, 1891. The location of the bridge 
is about forty feet north of where the old bridge stood, which was burned during the war 
Over the bridge we are in the town of Hampton, a brief sketch of which we will now give. 



VISITORS HANI) BOOK 



65 







&^.j* r§;;!lMilli 



Wmhmii 









SB 






™>4!&«B 









'l 



Shellbanks Industrial Home. 



Hampton. 



When the renowned Capt. John Smith first visited the site of the present town of 
Hampton, he found it but a small village, containing about eighteen houses, bovering but 
hree acres of ground. It was then called Kecoughtau, after a small tribe of Indians, who 
at that date numbered but about twenty warriors. Here he and his little party stopped in 
July, 1608, and were entertained by the natives before starting on their voyage of explora- 
tion up the Powhatan. 

The village was settled by the English as early as 16 10, although its modern name 
was not bestowed upon it till its establishment by law as a town in 1705. 

In the colonial days it was a place of some importance for the shipment of produce 
and the importation of British goods and manufactures. In a work called "Notes on Vir- 
ginia," published in 1794, by Thomas Jefferson, in answer to the query, "Which are the 
principal towns of Virginia ?", Hampton is mentioned in connection with Norfolk, Rich- 
mond, Petersburg and other towns — thus proving that it must have been a place of some 
importance. 

We doubt if any town or village of the same size has passed through so many and va- 
ried vicissitudes as the town of Hampton. One of the earliest engagements of the Revolu- 



VISITORS HAND BOOK. 



6 7 




■«<aggafca mawlJi^-J^gw l ,;:!*■ "'" ~" ' : " : : 'V ' ; :._ 



ST. JOHN'S CHURCH. 



68 visitors' hand book 

tionary war was the successful defense of the town by the inhabitants, aided by a rifle com- 
pany, against the boats of a British fleet, in October, 1775. 

On Sept. 14th, 1781, General Washington visited Hampton, and with the Count De 
Grasse, concerted the plan of siege by which the British forces surrendered at Yorktown 
on the 6th of October following. In 1812, the town was less fortunate than in 1775, being at- 
tacked by Admiral Cockburn and Sir Sidney Beckwith, with a flotilla of boats, and cap- 
tured after a short but decisive action. On this occasion the place was given up to pillage, 
and the inhabitants who had been unable to flee were subjected to most shameful indigni- 
ties and barbarities. Even the British commander was moved to indignition at the excesses 
he was unable to prevent ; and answering a congratulatory letter from his commanding 
general at Norfolk, deprecated all praises of his achievement, with the forcible and striking 
remark, "Worthless is the laurel that is steeped in woman's tears." 

In an account of the war of 181 2, written in "the ancient historical style," in 1816, the 
author thus graphically describes the desolation caused by Cockburn's visit to the little 
town : 

"31 Now on the twenty-fifth day of the same month the army of Britain went against 
a village called Hampton, which lieth in the state of Virginia, and took it. 

32 Howbeit, the little band of Columbia, commanded by Crittchfield, fought hard 
against them. 

33 Nevertheless, they prevailed over him, and slew seven of his men, and wounded 
others, upon which he fled ; for the men of Britain were like unto a swarm of locusts. 

34 But the blood of two hundred royal slaves became a sacrifice to the wickedness of 
their leaders. 



VISITORS HAND BOOK 



6 9 




BAPTIST CHURCH. 



35 There is a time when truth may be uttered with 
pleasure ; and the droppings thereof are like unto 
frankincense and myrrh. 

36 But, alas ! the hour hath passed away or it hath 
not yet come ; she hath gone down into the vale of 
tears ; yea, deep sorrow treadeth upon her heels. 

37 Oh ! Albion ! that a veil might be cast over the 
transgressions of that day : 

38 Thy wickedness shall be written with a pen of 
iron, and with the point of a diamond. 

39 It was here, even in Hampton, that thy strength 
and thy majesty rose up against the poor the sick and 
the needy. 

40 Instead of protecting the tender women, the fair- 
est work of God ; the life of the world ; behold ! what 
hast thou done ? 

41 See ! the shrieking matron cast herself into the 
waters that she may escape thy brutal violence : but 
all in vain ; her garments are torn from her ; she be- 
comes a prey to thy savage lust. 

42 Not she alone, but her daughter, and her fair 
sisters, have fallen into thy unhallowed hands, and 
been denied ! 



7° visitors' hand book. 

43 Oh, Britain ! the voice of violated chastity riseth up against thee : the mark of 
the beast is printed in thy forehead ; 

44 Even the old and weak men become victims of thy barbarity ; thy servants 
stripped the aged Hope, and buffeted him ; with the points of their swords did they tor- 
ment him. 

45 Do the groans of the murdered Kirby creep into thine ears ? go thou and repent of 
thine evil ; and do so no more : the Lord God of hosts shall be thy judge. 

46 The people of Columbia shall forgive thy crimes against them ; but the remem- 
brance thereof shall live coeval with time ; neither shall they forget the name of Cockburn. 

47 Even the sect of the tories despised him ; the evils which he wrought caused many 
of them to turn aside and walk in the foot-steps of the great Sanhedrim. 

48 And thou, black Revenge ! dreadful fiend ! sleep within the precincts of Hampton : 
a strong seal is put upon thy sepulchre ; the sons of Columbia shall not disturb thee. 

49 When they pass by this ill-fated town, they shall step aside and weep ; neither 
shall they enter the streets thereof, lest they awaken thee. 

50 And woe unto the royal potentate, or the princely ruler, that shall presume to 
break the seal, or rouse thee from thy slumbers ! 

51 Thy waking will be as the waking of the hungry tiger, when he riseth up to refresh 
himself : retribution shall be obtained : and the heathen shall tiemble." 

Again, when the war of '61 broke out, was Hampton destined to still further disaster. 
The creek upon which the town stands was for a while the dividing line between the Uni- 
on and Confederate forces ; the latter occupying the western, the former the eastern side. 



visitors' hand book 



71 




7 2 visitors' hand book 

In August, 1861, the Confederate forces, under General Magruder, numbering about seven 
thousand men, with eight pieces of artillery, were stationed on Back river, about three 
miles from Hampton. His intention was to force an engagement upon the Union soldiers 
stationed here or at Newport News ; or at least to destroy the town, and thus prevent its 
being used by General Butler's men as winter quarters. The latter he was successful in 
doing, as every house but one was destroyed. 

A gentleman who was an officer in the Confederate army and an eye witness and par- 
ticipant in the burning of the town, gives the following account of the same : "The burn- 
ing of this beautiful and ancient little town was not an act of mere wanton and useless 
destruction ; nor was it expected, by those who suggested or carried it into execution, to 
have any material effect in crippling the operation of the Federal army encamped in its 
vicinity. But at that time the opinion prevailed throughout the North that the masses of 
the Southern people were not in sympathy with the secession movement, but were led or rath- 
er forced along against their will and convictions by defeated but ambitious politicians. * * 
It became necessary, in some emphatic way, to disabuse the northern mind of this entire 
misconception of the actual condition of affairs and it was supposed that a scene, such tha 
the burning of a town by its own inhabitants, rather than have it occupied by an invading 
foe, would tend greatly to the accomplishment of this end. 

"This step had several times been suggested to General Magruder, commanding on 
the Peninsula, and this too, by residents of the town and county ; but he, unwilling to sac- 
rifice the property of citizens who had already suffered so much from the ravages of wan 



VISITORS HAND BOOK. 



73 




■■Kfc 



f!ffTTn,t'"fprP 



.MASONIC fEMPLE, HAMPTON. 



74 visitors' hand book 

had declined to adopt the suggestion. At length, however, he reluctantly yielded to the 
wishes of the people. * * * * * 

"Having stationed a considerable force at the Whiting farm on the Newmarket road, 
about five miles from Hampton, he dispatched a battalion of four companies from Col. 
Hodges' regiments, Captains Phillips and Good's companies of cavalry, and Captain Sin- 
clair's company of infantry, to the accomplishment of the enterprise. Capt. Phillips' com- 
pany, the Old Dominion Dragoons, was raised in the town and county ; and Capt. Sin- 
clair's, the York Rangers, was raised in the county of York, but officered by men from 
Hampton ; the remaining troops were from other portions of Virginia. The whole force 
was under the command of Col Hodges. * * * * 

"Strong guards were sent out on the Newport News and Salter's Creek roads, to pre- 
vent a surprise from that direction, as the bridge over the creek which crosses the Back 
River road had been burned, and a force obtaining posession of the Market road, would 
effectually cut off their line of retreat. A strong picket was also sent out to Hope's farm 
on the road leading north from the town. " 

"The expedition entered Hampton just after nightfall on the 9th of August, 186 r, and 
immediately proceeded to the work of conflagration. The town, as it stood at that time, 
lay almost entirely on the western bank of Hampton river, and was divided into four 
nearly equal parts' by the intersection of King and Queen streets. The plan of operation 
was simply to assign a detachment to each of these sections with instructions to commence 
on the eastern side and fire the houses as they retired. Col. Hodges halted his battalion 
at a line of breast works thrown up by the enemy just to the westward of the old church 



VISITORS HAND BOOK. 



75 




ROUGH ASHLERS. 



76 visitors' hand book 

wall, while Capt. Phillips took command of the remaining troops and proceeded to the 
more active work of the night. After assigning each detachment its special work, he him- 
self proceeded to the foot of Hampton bridge to watch any demonstrations of the enemy 
from the direction of Fort Monroe. After a little brisk firing the Federal picket retired 
and the Confederates were in undisputed possession of the town. 

But few of the houses were occupied ; all the arms-bearing population was in the 
Confederate army ; most of the non-combatants had fled to Williamsburg, Richmond and 
other places when the Federal troops first occupied Newport News, and the Negroes not 
carried away by their owners had for the most part sought the protection of the Federal 
lines. Thus the town was virtually deserted, only a few old and infirm people remaining 
in it. But the most painful part of that night's work was to inform those few of the dread- 
ful errand on which they had come. 

"No time could be given for the removal of effects — what was to be done had to be 
done quickly ; so in fifteen minutes after the citizens had been notified to leave, the work 
of firing had begun. So finely planned and admirably executed were the arrangements for 
this, that in half an hour every house had been fired, and before dawn the pretty little vil- 
lage was a disfigured heap of smouldering ashes and crumbling walls. Only five houses 
remained standing, they from som; cause having failed to burn. Of these five, two were 
torn down the succeeding winter by the Federal troops ; and now there are only two 
houses on the western side of the river that were built prior to the 7th day of August, 1861. 

"It is due to the vindication of General Magruder's character against the reproaches 
that have been cast upon it, to say that this act, since so loudly condemned, was at the time 
received with cordial approval. * * * * 



visitors' hand rook n 77 

Concurrent testimony amply proves that in many cas es property was fired by the hands 
of its owners or the children of its owners, and this, too, with an alacrity and zeal alto- 
gether unsurpassed." * * * 

And so a curse seemed to follow the locality where the first slaves were landed, till, in 
God's own time, by the mighty voice of war, the incubus was lifted. It seemed fitting that 
here, where the Negro first felt the bitterness of slavery, he should also first taste the 
sweetness of freedom and liberty, for the famous "order" that made him "contraband of 
war," and therefore virtually gave him his liberty, was issued by Gen. Butler in May, i86r, 
from the camp at Fort Monroe. 

For some time after the close of the late war, but little notice was taken of Hampton. 
Its population was mostly colored, whose chief occupation was fishing and oystering. But 
soon a change came ; with the establishment of the institution wherein the once down- 
trodden races could have and enjoy the same privileges as their more favored white breth- 
ren, the designs of an All-wise providence seemed to have been fulfilled ; and since then 
there has been improvement, slow, to be sure, but nevertheless marked. Many of the old 
houses have given place to more modern looking buildings ; trades and manufactures are 
looking up ; northern capital is finding its way here, and Hampton seems to be on the 
road to a prosperous future. The Chesapeake and Ohio Railway connects the town with 
Old Point Comfort and Newport News — a thing that the most sanguine inhabitant of the 
place ten years ago would not have thought possible. An electric plant has been estab. 
lished and an electric railway is being constructed and will be in operation by April. 

The town was incorporated in 1887, and is governed by a Mayor and council, and con- 



78 visitors' hand book 

tains about five thousand inhabitants, the majority of whom are colored. There are two 
principal streets ; the main one, which the bridge opens on, being called Queen ; and a 
cross one, about the centre of the town, which is called King. There are many other 
smaller streets, but the principal businesss houses are on these two. 
The chief object of attraction in this quaint town is the 

Old St. John's Church, 

which is on the right hand side of Queen street, a short distance above King. We will en- 
deavor to give, in as brief a manner as possible, so much of the history of it as we are able 
to gather. 

Under the administration of Sir Thomas Yeardley, in 1621, there was a law passed 
that a house of worship should be erected and a burial ground set apart on every settle- 
ment in Virginia. But as Kecoughtan was one of the earliest settled places, it is natural 
to suppose that a church was erected some time previous to this date. The old records 
place the date at 1620. The new church (St. John's) was built between 1658 and 1660. 
The old church was on what was known as the "Pembroke farm," about three-quarters of 
a mile from the St. John's Church on the same road. There are a number of old grave- 
stones still on the place. Among other interments is that of Sir John Neville, Vice-Admi- 
ral of His Majesty's Fleet in the West Indies, who died in 1697. 

The present Vestry book of the church dates back no further than 1741, the original 
having been lost or destroyed. But th^ records of the Court extend back to 1635, and 
furnish interesting and reliable information. The first record we have is that of the 
Church Wardens presenting to the Court an unworthy female in 1644. In the next year 



VISITORS' HAND BOOK. jQ 

we read of a Rev. Justinian Aylmer, who officiated till 1667. He was succeeded by Rev. 
Jeremiah Taylor, who buried a Mr. Nicholas Baker in the New Church of Kichotan. Thus 
in this same year there was a new and old church standing. 

Rev. Jeremiah Taylor was succeeded in 1667 by Rev. John Page. By the court records 
we learn that Taylor was a disgrace to the cause and to the community. Rev. John Page 
was succeeded by Rev. Cope Doyley in 1687. He by Rev, Andrew Thompson in 17 12. He 
was buried on the Pembroke farm. On his tomb is the following : 

"Here lyeth ye body of ye Reverend Mr. Andrew Thompson, who was born at Stonehive in 
Scotland, and was minister of this parish seven years, and departed this life ye 11 Sept, 1719, in ye 46 
yeare of his age, leaving ye character of a sober and religious man.'' 

He was succeeded by Rev. James Falconer in 1 7 19. He by Rev. Wm. Fife in 1731. 
He by Rev. Thos. Warrington in 1756. He by Rev. Wm. Selden in 1770. He by Rev. 
Wm. Nixon in 1783. How long he served is not known. It is supposed that Rev. Mr. Sky- 
ren (whose tomb is in the graveyard) assumed charge after Mr. Nixon. He was probably 
succeeded by Rev. John Jones Spooner, who died in 1799. His memorial stone can be 
seen near the east entrance of the church. He was succeeded by Rev. Benjamin Brown, 
who died in 1806. His memorial stone can be seen to the right of the door entering from 
the east. There being no meeting of Vestry from 1786 till 1806, it is impossible to give 
the exact data. At the meeting of 1806, Rev. George Halson was chosen minister. Rev. 
Mr. Syme followed and served for a short period. About twenty years more elasped be- 
fore another meeting of the Vestry occurred, when the Rev. Mark L. Chevers was chosen, 
who served the parish in connection with the chaplaincy of Old Point Comfort until 1842- 
43. In 1845, Rev - Mr - Bauseman became its minister ; in 1850, Rev. Mr. McCabe, who was 



8o visitors' hand rook 

succeeded by Mr. Harlow in 1858 ; he by Mr. Jacobs in i860, he by Dr. J. H. McCarthy in 
1868 ; he by Mr. Norwood in 1870 ; he by Mr. Jarrett in 1873 ; he by Rev. J. W. Keeble in 
1875 ; and he by the present incumbent, Rev. J. J. Gravatt, in 1876. 

Although there are no church records to prove it, yet, it is claimed that the Rev. 
David Mossom, the minister who married George Washington and the widow Custis, was 
at one time stationed here. 

Tradition says that anciently the king's coat of arms was placed upon the steeple, but 
that in 1776, shortly after the Declaration of Independence, the steeple was rent length- 
wise by lightning, and the insignia of royalty hurled to the earth. 

It is sta'ed on good authority that the bricks used in the building of this church were 
brought over from England by the colonists, and although the old structure has passed 
through so many and varied experiences, yet the "Walls of Zion" have withstood the vio- 
lence of man's wrath, and the heat ot the raging fire, and to day within them, as in years 
gone by, the hymn of thanksgiving is heard ascending, and the word of the Lord is ex- 
pounded, not only to our own race, but also to the descendants of the aboriginal races of 
our continent. During the war of 1812, the church was occupied by the British forces 
who used it for various purposes, and left nothing standing but the walls. At this time 
the frame-work of the bell tower was so decayed that the " Old Queen Anne " bell had to 
be taken down and placed in the angle made by the church and the tower. From that po- 
sition it was removed, by order of Major Crutchfield, commanding the troop encamped on 
"Little England Farm," to the guard house of that encampment, and a short time after, 
the tongue becoming loose, an axe was used to stike the hour, and the bell cracked. It 
was recast in 1825. At this time also, a meeting of the church was called, a vestry elected, 



VISITORS HAND BOOK C. I 

and enough subscriptions obtained to have the edifice put in order; and it seemed as though 
its tribulations were over. But, at the beginning of the late war, it was set on fire by the 
Confederates, and burned to the ground; but still the old walls held firmly together, as 
though in defiance of anything that man could do to them. To test its strength still more, 
excavations were made under every corner of the building for the purpose of finding the 
corner stone, and thereby getting any valuables that might be secreted therein. Whether 
the efforts of these vandals were successful or not the writer does not know. The oldest 
known grave in this church-yard is 1701. The church can be visited at any hour of the 
day- If it is not open, the key can be obtained from the sexton, who lives but a few doors 
away. 

The finest building in the town is the Masonic Temple, on Queen street near King. It 
is a three story brick structure, built in 1889, at a cost of about $13,000. The first floor is 
a store, the second story is divided into offices and the third floor is used by the various 
Masonic Bodies for Lodge purposes. 

On King street, a few doors from Queen, is the Post Office. The Court House and 
Jail, remodelled in 1890, are also on this street. The old Records, which are still in a good 
state of preservation, can be seen by visitors, upon application at the clerk's office, in the 
second story of the building. 

There are both white and colored Baptist and Methodist churches in the town, also a 
white Presbyterian and church of the Disciples. There are two Banks, the Bank of 
Hampton, of which H. C. Whiting, Esq , is president, and a private bank controlled by the 
Mess. Schmelz Brothers. Both institutions do a thriving business. There is a first (lass 
Hotel on King street, as well as numerous private boarding houses in the town and vicini- 



VISITORS HAND BOOK 



ty. Oystering and fishing are the chief occupations of the people. Thousands of barrels 
of the lucious bivalves are shipped north every year, by the several firms engaged in the 
business. Crab canning is another important industry, and affords employment to seve- 
ral hundred hands. An iron foundry has been running successfully for several years, its 
products finding a ready market. 

As we drive through the town we see many things that still remind us of the days 
"befo' de wa'." The tumble-down shanties on some of the back streets, with the sable, 
happy-looking occupants sitting on the steps, contentedly smoking their pipes, or gossiping 
with their neighbors ; the children, with as little clothing on as the law permits, playing 
around ; while the never-to-be-got-along-without "dorg" is a neccessary adjunct to put a 
finishing touch to the sketch ; and the general rule is — the poorer the family, the greater 
the number of dogs. 

Having visited the different places of interest in the immediate vicinity, we will turn 
our horses' heads towards the Point, and leave the trip to surrounding places of interest 
for another day and chapter. 



Newport N e ^ s - 



To reach this thriving city, the future metropolis of the South, we take the cars at 
Old Point Comfort, and a ride of fifteen minutes on the C. & O. brings us to the end of 
our journey. The 
city is situated on 
a point of land at 
the mouth of the 
James River, over- 
looking Hampton 
Roads,about seven 

miles from Hampton, and receives its m 
commemoration of the news brought 
England by Capt. Newport, to the starvi 
colony in the neighborhood. 

It was never considered a place ol 
importance, and it seems strange that 
of so many years should occur before th 
ty and natural advantages of the 1 
should be discovered and utilized. 




<M VISITORS HAND BOOK. 

The Chesapeake & Ohio railway company in extending its route, decided upon New- 
port News as a shipping point for coal, grain, etc., it being considerably nearer the ocean 
than New York, and with a water frontage unexcelled by any other place in the country. 
On Sunday, October 16th, 1881, at 2 p. m., Major J. J. Gorden, brother of Mr. T. H. Gor- 
den, one of the leading merchants in the city, -'drove home" the "silver spike" which indi- 
cated the completion of the road from the Ohio to the Chesapeake. 

The land embraced by the city is owned by the Old Dominion Land Company, and 
about one thousand acres have been regularly laid out in streets 60 feet wide, crossed by a 
number of avenues 80 feet in width. 

Many handsome brick and frame stores and residences have been built and hundreds 
more are being constructed, where a few years ago there was only a single house. 

There are several fine hotels, the principal one being Hotel Warwick, which has ac- 
commodations for three hundred guests, also two Banks and churches of almost every de- 
nomination. But the beauty and value of the city lies in its extensive water front. This 
is evident from the fact that, before a house had been erected, an immense covered wharf, 
700 feet 6 inches long and 132 ft. wide was built. Two large coal piers — one 850 feet long 
and 54 feet wide, with an approach of 186 feet — the other 400 feet long and 54 feet wide, 
with an approach of 125 feet — have also been erected. One has two tracks, the other three, 
being so constructed as to move the cars by gravity. They are 30 ft. high, and vessels are 
loaded by twelve chutes from the cars. 

The wharf of the Old Dominion Steamship Company is S50 feet long and 162 feet 
wide ; two stories high, and connected with a ten-story grain-elevator, 385x90 ft. having a 
capacity of 1,500,000 bushels. The largest vessels can approach these wharves, at any time, 



visitors' hand book 85 

there being a depth of 28 feet of water at low tide, and it is an interesting and exciting 
scene to witness the loading of them with coal, grain, &c. 

There is a regular line of steamers between Newport News and Brazil and other for- 
eign ports. 

There has been recently constructed at a cost of over a million dollars, a large dry 
dock and ship building establishment (embracing about 60 acres, five of which are covered 
by the various buildings) which, when in thorough working order, will furnish employ- 
ment to about five thousand mechanics. Already a number of vessels have been repaired, 
and one large steam tug launched, while several others are in course of construction. The 
dry dock is said to be the largest and finest in the world, being 600 feet long. 

There are a number of smaller industries, such as an iron foundry, broom factory, saw 
mill, etc., with several others in contemplation. A company has been organized, which 
will furnish water for the city as well as for Hampton and Old Point, the supply being ob- 
tained from the various streams between the city and Williamsburg. An electric railway 
will also connect the city with Hampton and Old Point. 

All the available land in the immediate vicinity has been bought up, and is held by 
various companies ; several sales have been held, at which good prices were realized ; lots 
are being daily sold at private sale, many of the purchasers contemplating the erection of 
buildings thereon at once. Homes are in great demand, and property is increasing in val- 
ue every day. 

The city has a live weekly paper, the Commercial, established in 1884, Mr. John Viney 
editor and Proprietor, and is republican in politics. 



86 



VISITORS HAND BOOK. 



Kort Wool or Rip-Raps. 

Directly opposite, and but 1,000 yards distant from the Hygeia, stands this unfinished 
fort, which was designed, with Fort Monroe, to guard the entrance channel of Hampton 
Roads. It derived its name from the sound caused by the unremitting ripple of the shoal 
water upon the rocks and bar. It is formed upon an artificial island made by casting in 
rocks in the depth of twenty feet of water, until, by gradual accumulation, it emerged 
above the tides. 

It can be reached in a very short time in a sail boat, and the visit will be a very inter- 
esting one. 




Norfolk. 

Norfolk is situated in Norfolk County, on the north side of Elizabeth river, 226 miles 
from the base of the Blue Ridge mountains, and 36 miles from the point at which the 
boundary line of Virginia and North Carolina intersects the Atlantic coast. It is distant 
(by water) from Boston, about 620 miles ; from New York, 300 miles ; from Philadelphia, 
270 miles ; from Washington, 185 miles; from Baltimore, 178 miles ; from New Orleans 
1,326 miles ; from Richmond, 102 miles ; from Old Point Comfort, 16 miles. 

Norfolk is a Saxon word, compounded from North and folk ; literally meaning North 
people. The name was given by one of the earliest settlers, Col. Thorogood, in honor of 
his native county in England. 

On June 8th, 1680, an Act of Assembly was passed, directing the purchase of fifty 
acres of land for the town of Norfolk. The land was purchased from Nicholas Wise for 
the sum of "ten thousand pounds of good merchantable tobacco and caske." 

In October, 1705, in the fourth year of the reign of Queen Anne, Norfolk was estab- 
lished by law as a town. On the 15th day of September, 1736, it was formed into a Bor- 
ough, by royal charter from George II. Samuel Boush, a popular landholder, was ' made 
Mayor, until a vacancy should occur either by his death or resignation. 

In 1775, the British fleet under Lord Dunmore, rendezvoused in the harbor. 



00 VISITORS HAND BOOK 

On the ist clay of January, 1776, the town was bombarded and set on fire by the Brit- 
ish, and fully nine-tenths of it was destroyed. 

During the winter of 1779 — 80, the harbor was frozen across, and persons passed be. 
tween Norfolk and Portsmouth on ice for the first time in their lives. 

On the 13th of February, 1845, by special Act of Assembly, Norfolk became a city. 

In 1855, Norfolk was visited by that terrible disease yellow-fever, which was brought, 
in the month of June, by the ocean steamer Benjamin Franklin. The pestilence spread 
with alarming rapidity until the number of deaths daily reached as high as eighty. In one 
week four hundred of the citizens of Norfolk died. Out of an average population of 6,000 
about 2,000 died, in the short space of 90 days. 

January 25th, 1857, was the coldest day ever experienced in this section. Passengers 
from New York by steamer Roanoke, came from Old Point Comfort on the ice, the lady 
passengers being drawn upon a sleigh. 

April 2nd, 1 86 1, the Confederate flag was flung to the breeze from the house top of a 
private citizen. 

The first battle in Virginia, occurred at Sewell's Point, (about 5 miles south of Old 
Point Comfort,) on the 19th of May, 186 r. 

On the 10th of May, 1862. Norfolk was evacuated by the Confederates, and General 
Wool took possession of the city. He afterward issued an order appointing Brigadier 
General Viele Millitary Governor of the city. 

Soon after the declaration of peace, the former rosidents of Norfolk who had survived 
the four years' conflict, returned to their native city, and once more betook themselves to 
the routine of every-day life. 



visitors' hand book 89 

Since 1865, the city has been steadily growing, until now the population numbers 
30,000 and her manufactories and industries have increased to a gratifying extent. 

The water front of Norfolk if one of the finest in the country, vessels of the largest 
capacity being enabled to load and unload at the wharves. 

The city contains many fine residences and public buildings, Banks, Hotels, Churches, 
etc. The principal place of interest to visitors is the Old St. Paul's Church, corner Church 
and Cove streets. This is the only building left standing from the fire of 1776. It is cru- 
ciform and built of glazed brick brought over from England. The lot on which it stands 
was given to the people of the borough by Samuel Boush, (the first Mayor) in 1733, to be 
used as a burying ground. The building was erected in 1739. On the south corner next 
to Church street, can still be seen imbeded in the bricks, a small cannon ball which was 
fired from one of the British ships in 1776. The walls are covered with a luxuriance of 
ivy, which adds to the quaintness and beauty of the venerable structure. The grave yard, 
which was used as early as 1700, contains many interesting monuments. 

The Hotel accommodations of Norfolk cannot be surpassed by any city of its size in 
the country. The Atlantic, R. S. Dodson, Proprietor, has a national reputation. 

Almost every variety of manufactures and trades are carried on. Norfolk is one of 
the principal ports in the country for the shipment of cotton ; it is also the peanut market 
for the world, upwards of a million and a half bushels being raised annually in the State alone. 

By rail, the distance between New York and Norfolk can be covered in twelve hours. 

Boston', by water, takes about forty-eight hours ; to Providence thirty-six hours. 

To Baltimore, Bay Line, about twelve hours. 

To Philadelphia, Clyde Line, about twenty four hours ; by rail ten hours. 



PortsEQOiitl]. 



Portsmouth is on the left bank of the Elizabeth river directly opposite Norfolk Ferry, 
boats ply between the two cities every few minutes. 

The town was established in February, 1752, upon the land of Wm. Crawford, and, 
with Norfolk, hasmany times felt the heavy hand of adversity. 

In 1779, on the nth day of May, the British, under Sir George Collier, took posees- 
sion of the town, destroying much naval and military stores. 

In October, 1780, Brig. General Leslie, with about 3,000 troops, landed at Portsmouth, 
and took possession of vessels and other property. 

When Arnold invaded Virginia in 1781, Portsmouth was the traitor's headquarters for 
a time. 

Cornwallis was at Portsmouth just previous to taking his post at Yorktown. 

The greatest place of attraction to visitors is the 

IJ. S. Navy Yard, 
which is situated at the southern extremity of the city, on the part known as Gosport. It 
fronts on Lincoln street, south side, and extends from the water front on the east to the 



visitors' hand book 9 1 

east side of Third street, running west, along the south side of the county road, thence 
south to the river again, forming a plateau. 

One of the principal points of interest in the yard is the Dry Dock, built of stone, the 
construction of which was commenced January ist., 1828. An attempt was made to blow- 
it up by the Federals when they evacuated the place, April 20th, 1861. It was also dam- 
aged by the Confederates, when they evacuated the vicinity, May 10th, 1862. 

The engine used for pumping the water out of the dock alter a ship has been floated 
in, is situated in the machine shop, and is a powerful and elegantly constructed piece of 
machinery. It was destroyed by the Confederates during the war and rebuilt in 1867. 

On the water front we find the U. S. Receiving ship on which the marines and sailors 
are retained awaiting drafts for vessels in active service. 

Besides this, there are always one or more ships in, either being repaired or awaiting 
orders, so that this is a most interesting place to visit ; and a day can be employed very 
pleasantly and profitably in inspecting the different departments. 

The Yard was held by the Federals until Saturday, April 20th, 1861, ten days after the 
commencement of hostilities, and was under the the command of Commodore Macauley. 
On the night in question, the guns were spiked, buildings and several ships were fired, and 
all the machinery that could be broken, was rendered useless. The next morning, at day- 
light, the troops left for Fort Monroe, and the place was taken possession of by the Con- 
federates, who held the same till May 10th, 1862, (in that time remodelling the old Merri- 
mac — which had been burnt to the water's edge by the Federals when they evacuated the 
place — into the formidable iron monster the Virginia.) Learning that the Federal troops 



9 2 VISITORS HAND BOOK 

were organizing an attack upon Norfolk, the Confederates evacuated the place, after spik- 
ing the guns, and damaging all the property possible — as their predecessors had done. 
The Federals took possession of the place, and held the same throughout the war. 

The population of Portsmouth is about 12,000. The city has a quaint, old time ap- 
pearance, which is very interesting to those accustomed to the bustle of our Northern 
cities. 

A short distance below the city is the Naval Hospital, a large, attractive building, 
built of brick, and stuccoed. 

In the vicinity of Norfolk and Portsmouth, and within a few minutes ride are the fa- 
mous summer resorts. 

Ocean View, 

distant but 8 miles, and within view of the rip-raps and the capes : — and 

Virginia. Beach, 

but an hour's easy ride from Norfolk. 

Trains leave every hour during the summer season. 

I For instruction in reaching Norfolk and Portsmouth, see "Micellaneous Information'' 
— in back of book. ] 



\yillian)sbtirj| 



The city of Williamsburg is 47 miles from Richmond, 12 from Yorktown, 45 from 
Norfolk, 7 from Jamestown, and 37 from Old Point Comfort. 

It is the oldest incorporated town in the State. The immediate vicinity was formerly 
known as the "Middle Plantations," and the town was first settled in 1632. 

Under the administration of Governor Nicholson, the seat of government was moved 
from Jamestown here. His design was to lay the streets out in the form of a W and M in 
honor of William and Mary, but from its inconvenience, the plan was never adopted. 

Until 1779, when the seat of government was removed to Richmond, Williamsburg 
was the centre of fashion, wealth and learning of the "Old Dominion" — the influence of 
which has left its impress upon the place, manners and characteristics of the present inhab- 
itants. 

In colonial times it was the heart of the rebellion. Here it was that the walls of the 
Old Capitol re-echoed to the thunder of Patrick Henry's denunciation of the Stamp Act. 

At the old Raleigh Tavern on Gloucester Street, was discussed many important meas- 
ures, by the leading spirits in the Revolution. 

Here- in August, 1736, the Gazette, the first newspaper in Virginia, was started. In 
this paper the Declaration of Independence was first printed. 



94 VISITORS HAND BOOK 

In June, 1775, tne l ast House of Burgesses called together by royal authority, met in 
the council chamber of the Old Capitol. 

Among the many objects of interest, none is more worthy of a first place than the 
venerable and ancient 

College of Willian^L and Wlary, 

which is the oldest college in the country with the exception of Harvard. It was founded 
in 1692, by King William and Queen Mary, and endowed by them with 20,000 acres of 
land, with duties on furs and skins, and a*penny a pound on all tobacco transported from 
Virginia and Maryland to other plantations. 

The corporation had no other name but "The College" until the fourth year after reign 
of William and Mary (1693). It had endowments and was begun as early as 1660-61. 

The College building was planned by Sir Christopher Wren, and was designed to be an 
entire square. The first commencement exercises were held in 1700, at which there were 
some Indians present. The first president was Dr. James Blair, who held the position over 
half a century. 

The meetings of the General Assembly were held in the College from 1700 to 1705 
when it was destoyed by fire, together with the library and apparatus. The second build- 
ing was commenced in the time of Governor Spotswood, but was not finished till 1723, ow- 
ing to the scarcity of workmen and want of means. 

In 1 78 1, the College buildings wire occupied alternately by the British, French, and 
American troops. The buildings were injured and the President's house destroyed by fire. 



VISITORS HAND BOOK 95 

while occupied by the latter. It was subsequently rebuilt by Louis the XVI out of his pri- 
vate purse. 

In 1788, George Washington was made Chancellor of the College. 

February 8th, 1859, the College bulding was again destroyed by fire, (accidentally) 
and most of its interesting antiquities destroyed. In the library were many valuable and 
aint volumes, the gifts of kings, emperors, and arch-bishops ; also the cabinet of appa- 
ratus, many of the instruments being over a century old. 

ABOUT GLOVES. 

When buying Gloves remember that there is such a thing as a price that is TOO 
CHEAP. It is better to pay a fair * price and get good gloves like Hurt h- 

(\L. 
inson's. They are made trom select f jtS|j/9 (( ' s kins, i' 1 the best manner, and 




WARRANTED to be the most Service ' [ \\ilW able made. If your dealer does not 
keep them, send stamp to the manufac turer for the book " About Gloves. " 

It will interest you. . 

JOHN C HUTCHINSON, 

Established 1863. (mention visitors' guide bcok.) Johnstown, New York. 



9 6 



VISITORS HAND BOOK 



The building was rebuilt at once, and occupied the early part of the year following. 

At the breaking out of the Civil War, the College was closed, and the buildings were 
used by the military as barracks and hospital until the evacuation of the city in May, 1862. 
After this, all the houses on the College grounds were either burned or very badly injured. 
The vaults in the chapel (where lay the remains of Lord Botetourt, Peyton Randolph, 
John Randolph, Bishop Madison, Chancellor Nelson, and other celebrities) were broken 
open, and rifled of everything of value that could be found. 

Soon after the close of the war, the main building was restored, and in July, 1869, the 
school was again opened for the admission of students. 

The buildings are of brick, and accommodations are sufficient for about one hundred 

pupils. 

Here many of our most illustrious countrymen prosecuted their studies and here also 
the Indian was taught the "white man's way." From 1700 to 1776, from eight to ten were 
instructed annually. But we find that efforts in that direction were not very encouraging, 
as a writer at that time states that on returning to their homes "they generally followed 
their own savage customs and heathenish rites." , He also says "it is a great pity that 
more care is not taken of them after they are dismissed from the school, as they have ad- 
mirable capacities when their humors and tempers are perfectly understood." How strange 
that after the lapse of nearly two centuries, the force of this statement is just beginning to 
strike the public mind. The Indian department of the college was abandoned during the 
Revolution, owing to the loss of the manor of Brafferton. 

Here is also located Christ Church in Bruton Parish, first built in 1678, rebuilt and 



VISITORS HAND BOOK. 97 

enlarged 1744. It is now the oldest church in Virginia,except St. John's Church, Hampton, 
that is still used as house of worship, and is in perfect repair. The bell in this old church 
was presented by Queen Anne. In it is also the font in which Pocahontas was baptized. It 
has three Communion Services of historic interest, namely — (1), the Jamestown service; (2), 
the service presented by George III; (3), the one presented by Queen Anne. In the church- 
yard are numberless monuments and slabs, upon which can be seen rare and peculiar epi- 
taphs. 

The site of the old colonial palace is now occupied by the Matty School ; the building 
being built mainly of the bricks dug out of the foundation of the old palace. 

The site of the old Capitol was occupied until recently by the ruins of a Female Col- 
lege that was in operation up to 1861. 

The house ocupied by Gen. Washington in 1781 as his headquarters and also by Lafa- 
yette, and afterward by Chancellor Wythe as a residence, is still to be seen. 

In the beautiful square fronting the College stands the 

Statue of Lord Botetourt, 

one of the colonial Governors. It was somewhat mutilated during the Revolutionary war. 
He appears in the court dress of that day, with a short sword at his side. The statute 
was erected in 1774 and removed from the Old Capitol to its present site in 1797. 
* Near the center of the city stands the 

Old "Powder Horn," 
which is a brick octagon. It was built by Governor Spotswood in 17 16. Lord Dunmore 
removed the powder belonging to the colony from this building to the Magdalen man of- 



98 visitors' hand book. 

war, which act aroused the indignation of the people to such an extent that they flew to 
arms, and he was compelled to pay the full value of the powder, amounting to jQ 330 to Pat- 
rick Henry, upon which the troops were withdrawn. 

The Eastern Lunatic Asylum, 

a State institution, is also located here. It is the oldest institution of the kind in America ; 
founded in 1773. It now treats nearly 500 patients and the per cent, of deaths is smaller 
than in any like institution in America or Canada. 

The city of Williamsburg contains fifteen hundred inhabitants, who are noted for 
their hospitality. Few places in the State have a more salubrious climate, the winters be- 
ing especially delightful, the cold being moderated by the large bodies of salt water in the 
vicinity, while, for the same reasons, the heat of the summer is neutralized. 

Hotel accommodations are ample, and charges very moderate. 

Within one mile of the city's limits, on the Yorktown road, stands Fort Magruder, 
where one of the most stubborn battles of the war was fought — the furious onslaughts of 
M' Clellen ' s host being resisted by the Confederates for two days, during which time his 
artillery kept up a continuous fire — in fact, the battle was described as " a deluge of shot 
and shell. " The official reports stated that 25,000 men were put " hors de combat. " The 
fight was continued through the streets of Williamsburg, where prodigies of valor on 
both sides were witnessed by the inhabitants. 

Yorktown, where Lord Cornwallis' with his army and English fleet succumbed to our 
victorious arms, is but twelve miles distant. 

But seven miles from Williamsburg is 



visitors' hand book. 99 

JcJ mestown, 
the site of the first settlement in Virginia. It is about fifty miles from the mouth of the 
James river, and was settled May 13, 1607. 

But little remains to be seen, with the exception of the ruins of the church tower, cov- 
ered with ivy, and some old tombstones. The tower is gradually crumbling, and the slabs 
are broken or cracked. The river is encroaching year by year, the ground originally occu- 
pied by the huts being already submerged. 

It is not known excctly at what time the old church was built, but it was between the 
the years 1615 and 1620. 

When Lord Delaware arrived at Jamestown in 1610, he found a church 60x24 which 
was the first permanent edifice erected for religious purposes by Englishmen in North 
America. 

The original settlement was completely destroyed by fire in the spring of 1608. 

The place is ripe with historical associations. 

Here was the scene of Captain Smith's trials and triumphs. 

Here Pocohontas passed her childhood, showing her affection for the white settlers by 
many acts of kindness. 

Here, about the last of August, 1619, the first cargo of twenty slaves was landed, from 
a Dutch man-of-war, much against the protest of the colonists. 

Here also the cunning and treachery of the red man was exemplified in the massacre 
of three hundred and forty-seven of the settlers by the Indians under Opechancanough, 
Powhatan's successor, on March 22, 1622 ; and here also, the same chief, a few years later, 
met his death, while a prisoner, at the hands of his guard. 



IOO 



VISITORS HAND BOOK. 



The scene of Capt. John Smith's rescue was a few miles below Shelly on York River, 
at or near what is still known as "Powhatan's chimney," which was attached to the house 
occupied by the Chief of that name, built for him by the English. 

But, it is an impossibility to give in a work of this character all the interesting his- 
torical facts connected with this locality. 




Perfection of Railway ^raVel. 

The inauguration, by the Baltimore and Ohio, Philadelphia and Reading and Jersey Central Rail- 
ways of the famous " Royal Blue Line " between New York and Washington via Philadelphia and Bal- 
timore, was an event of the greatest importance to travellers, and it is very gratifying to chronicle the 
great success and popularity it has obtained. It deserves it fully for it is emphatically the best line ev- 
er run between the two cities. We say the best from personal experience, for we have travelled over it 
and its competing lines, and when we say that over the " B. & O." route the highest realization and per- 
fection of railway travel is attained, we are but giving it just praise. Its trains are the safest, the finest 
and fastest in America and are run " on time." A vestibuled limited express, equipped so completely 
and luxuriously as to leave nothing to be desired, is run between New York and Washington in each 
direction in exactly five hours, which is not only the fastest time ever made between the two cities but 
it is the fastest train in America, and the splended road bed of the route permits the speed with per- 
fect safety. One can realize what a fast train this is when it is considered that the distance from Jer- 
sey City to Washington is almost exactly the same as from Boston to New York, and whereas six hours 
is the fastest time ever made between the latter cities, the Royal Blue Line's train from Jersey City 
to Washington performs the journey in four hours and forty-eight minutes. Notwithstanding the su- 
perior equipment and train service of this lime, no extra fares are charged on any of its trains. Pala- 
tial day coaches accompany all its trains, open to the public at the regular fare, and only the usual 
charges are made for accommodations in sleeping and parlor cars. 

There are six " Royal Blue Line " trains each way, daily, between New York and Washington. All 
of them are composed exclusively of vestibuled cars, protected by Pullman's anti-telescoping device, 
heated by steam and lighted by the Pintsch gas system. Trains of the " Royal Blue Line " connect at 
Washington and Baltimore for Steamers for Old Point Comfort. At Washington connection is made 
-via steamer from 6th Street wharf, steamer "Jane Mosely," every Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday, at 5 
p. m. From 7th Street wharf, steamer " Geo. Leary," every Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 5 p. m. 
Arrive at Old Point Comfort next morning at 7 o'clock, via either route. Returning, steamers leave 
Old Point Comfort daily, except Sunday, at 4 p. m., arriving at Washington 7 o'clock next morning. 
Fare $2, round trip $3. From Baltimore via Bay Lime Steamers daily, except Sunday. Leave Union 
Dock 6.30 p. m., Canton Wharf 7 p. m.; arrive Old Point Comfort next morning 7 o'clock. Elegant 
supper and breakfast served on boat. Returning, steamers leave Old Point Comfort for Baltimore 7 p. 
m. daily, except Sunday. Fare one way $3. Round trip $5. 



VISITORS HAND BOOK. 



Miscellaneous Information- 



Luray Cave. — This celebrated place can be reached direct from Old Point Comfort. 
Take C. & O. Ry. to Waynesboro. Thence via Shenandoah Valley R. R. 

White Sulphur Springs, West, Va., and other popular Virginian Resorts, on the C. & 
O. Railway, can be reached in a few hours from Old Point Comfort. Through Palace and 
Sleeping cars daily. 

Richmond, Williamsburg, Petersburg, and other intermediate points : Two 
through trains daily via C. & O. Railway. 

Big Bethel, — This interesting place, where one of the first battles of the late war was 
fought, is but twelve miles from Old Point Comfort, in the lower part of York County. 
To Reach Norfolk and Portsmouth : — 

Steamers for Norfolk and Portsmouth leave Old Point Comfort daily as follows : 
Washington steamer 7 a. m. The Bay Line Steamer at 7 a. m., the steamer Luray at 9 a. 
m., Cape Charles steamer at 9.45 a. m., and steamer Northampton at 3 p. m. Visitors to 
the Navy Yard should land at Portsmouth. Returning, excursionists can take the Luray 
at 2 p. m., the Washington steamer at 4 p. m., the Bay Line steamer at 6.15 p. m., the Cape 
Charles steamer at 6.20 p. m. The distance from Norfolk to Old Point Comfort is 16 
miles, or one hour by steamer. 
Poquosin, Mathews, Severn & Ware River. 

The steamer Northampton leaves Old Point Comfort on Monday, Wednesday and 



visitors' hand book. 103 

Friday at 8 a. m. for Ware and Poquosin Rivers, returning at 3 p. m. On Tuesday, Thurs- 
day and Saturday at 8 a. m. for Mathews and Severn River, returning at 3 p. m. 

Newport News and Smithfibld. The Luray leaves Hampton every evening (except 
Sunday) at 4 o'clock, returning the following morning at 8 o'clock. 



FARES. 

Carriages, per Hour , $1.00 to $1 50 

Sail Boats, per Hour -. 1 .00 to 1 50 

To Mathews, Poquosin, Severn and Ware River and return 1 00 

To Norfolk and Portsmouth, each way 5° 

round trip ticket ., 75 

To Richmond by boat, $1.00, by mi! • 2 45 

To Williamsburg, " " 1 05 

For information regarding arrival and departure of trains and boats, inquire in Hotel 
office, as the schedule varies at different seasons of the year. 



104 



VISITORS HAND BOOK. 




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